Friday, May 4, 2012
Almost gone!
All packed, snacks ready, house taken care of, getting excited. Anticipating a very long day Sun. from Denver to Cusco, getting through customs, sleeping in airports! and meeting up with Barb who is the third member of our party. Barb and I have done several backcountry trips through the years for the college and WEA. Great colleague of Kathleen's and me. Looking forward to sharing our experience as best we can.
Monday, April 30, 2012
SA Itinerary
Itinerary
Peru & Ecuador 2012
Sat May 5 Pick up rental car drive to Denver – hotel.
Sun May 6 Fly out of Denver 7:40 am arrive Miami 1:30 pm.
American 1126
Fly
out of Miami 11:55 pm American 2111.
Arrive Lima Peru 4:30 am.
Mon May 7 Fly out of Lima 7:00 am American 7264 (LAN) Arrive
Cusco Peru 8:15 am.
Check
into Dream Hostel for three nights.
Check in wt SAS our Inca Trail co. pay for rest of trip by
noon on Tues Ph# +51 84 249194 Spend time acclimatizing and visiting local
ruins. Sleep! Hiking the Inca requires a
guide, cannot hike by ourselves.
Strictly regulated as this World Heritage site was being ruined by too
many tourist. It sounds impossible to
us, but the regulations limit the traffic to 500 people per day on the trail
with $100 permits per person. Usually
takes 4-5 days to do trail. Seems that that many people would be way too many,
of course that includes all the guides/porters/etc. we’ll see.
Tues May 8 Explore Cusco Meals on own BLD
today and Wed.
Wed. May 9 Continue exploration. 7:00 pm pre-trip briefing at our
hostel? After today no contact with us.
Get cash to tip porters/cooks/etc.
Thurs May 10 CUSCO- PISKACUCHO Km 82- PATALLAQTA -CUSIPATA-
WAYLLABAMBA- AYAPATA (CAMPING). Vamos Amigos!!
Early pick-up from your
hotel will begin around 5:00 am. We will meet at our departure point, Plaza
Regocijo, by 5:30 to board our private transportation. Make sure you carry your
original passport or ISIC card. Our journey from Cusco to Piskacucho takes approximately
3 hours, with many beautiful views of the Sacred Valley, the Urubamba River,
Andean towns, and the Inca town of Ollantaytambo. Along the way, we will stop
to stretch our legs, use the bathroom, and enjoy breakfast, before continuing
on to Piscacucho (2,680 m / 8,790 ft). There we will meet our camp crew and the
porters who will carry our belongings during our 35-mile hike. Passports in
hand, we clear the official Inca Trail check point, cross a suspension
footbridge across the Urubamba River, and begin our trek with a gentle climb.
We have three hours on relatively level terrain as we follow the course of the
river, rewarded with superb views of Mount Veronica (5,750 m). The easy walk
passes through a forest of giant cactus and native bushes. At Miskay we take
the trail to the left, ascending gradually to Willkaraccay high above the mouth
of the Cusichaca River and across from the Inca town of Llactapata (Terrace
Town). Our vantage point is from a flat bluff above the extensive site, which
was built as a fort because it commands the entrance to the Cusichaca Valley.
The terracing system was used during Inca times for growing maize, a prestige
crop that needed irrigation in the dry highlands. After a short rest, we
continue another 15 minutes down to our lunch site at Tayaroc. Our path is
adorned with native flowers and bromeliads growing in the boulders along the
left side, and by majestic views of the mountains in both valleys. Walking
times are always approximate, depending on weather conditions, group ability
and other factors. After lunch, another 3-4 hours will bring us to the village
of Wayllabamba (3,000 m / 9,840 ft), followed by an uphill climb through woods
and along a stream to our first camp at Ayapata (3,300 m / 10,824 ft). You will
be rewarded with Te Macho and a buffet dinner. Buenas Noches!!!
Meals:BLD
Accommodation:Camping
Maximum Altitude:3,300
m/10,824 ft
Minimum Altitude:2,680
m/8,790 ft
Distance Travelled:12 km
approx
Approximate Walking
Time:6-7 hours / Ascent up: 620 m
Fri May 11 AYAPATA- LLULLUCHAYAQ- DEAD WOMAN`S PASS-
PACAYMAYO- RUNKURAQAY-CHAKICOCHA (CAMPING).
After breakfast, we depart
from the Ayapata camp around 7:00 am. This is our longest day, but one rewarded
with spectacular views down several valleys and up to the surrounding
snow-covered peaks. We will put in a 5-hour hike to reach our lunch camp in the
Pacaymayo Valley, then another 3-4 hours to our night camp at Chakicocha.
We begin with a 900-m ascent up to the Warmiwanusca (Dead Woman’s) Pass at 4,200 m/13,776 ft. Along the way, we ascend steeply uphill through the Corralpunku Valley to the Llulluchayoc Zone, where you can see several species of birds. With luck we’ll see hummingbirds, falcons and black-chested buzzard eagles. We’ll soon enter a beautiful cloud forest, or polylepis woodland, and the treeless grasslands of the puna. From this point, you can see the highest pass ahead. The path climbs for two more hours along a large number of steps, some of them newly laid to protect the mountain from erosion. You can walk at your own pace, stopping to catch your breath whenever you like. This last hard climb brings us to Dead Woman’s Pass, the first of two that we will cross today.
Once the full group reaches this pass, we take a rest break before beginning a steep descent into the Pacaymayo Valley on the other side. You’ll find that your energy returns as we proceed along this downhill segment toward a generous lunch and rest.
In the afternoon we begin a second ascent, this time to the ruins at Runcuracay, located a bit below the Runcuracay Pass (3,950 m / 12,956 ft). From the pass, in clear weather, you can look back to the Dead Woman’s Pass and forward to a breath-taking sweep of snow-capped peaks. These include the 6,000-m Pumasillo (Puma’s Claw) massif. From here, most of the trail is downhill or gently undulating until we reach the impressive ruins at Sayacmarca.
After some exploration, another 20 minutes bring us to Chakicocha (3,400 m / 11,000 ft). This will be our coldest night on the trail, at around +3 degrees C in December and -4 C in June. Tea time and Buffet Dinner.
We begin with a 900-m ascent up to the Warmiwanusca (Dead Woman’s) Pass at 4,200 m/13,776 ft. Along the way, we ascend steeply uphill through the Corralpunku Valley to the Llulluchayoc Zone, where you can see several species of birds. With luck we’ll see hummingbirds, falcons and black-chested buzzard eagles. We’ll soon enter a beautiful cloud forest, or polylepis woodland, and the treeless grasslands of the puna. From this point, you can see the highest pass ahead. The path climbs for two more hours along a large number of steps, some of them newly laid to protect the mountain from erosion. You can walk at your own pace, stopping to catch your breath whenever you like. This last hard climb brings us to Dead Woman’s Pass, the first of two that we will cross today.
Once the full group reaches this pass, we take a rest break before beginning a steep descent into the Pacaymayo Valley on the other side. You’ll find that your energy returns as we proceed along this downhill segment toward a generous lunch and rest.
In the afternoon we begin a second ascent, this time to the ruins at Runcuracay, located a bit below the Runcuracay Pass (3,950 m / 12,956 ft). From the pass, in clear weather, you can look back to the Dead Woman’s Pass and forward to a breath-taking sweep of snow-capped peaks. These include the 6,000-m Pumasillo (Puma’s Claw) massif. From here, most of the trail is downhill or gently undulating until we reach the impressive ruins at Sayacmarca.
After some exploration, another 20 minutes bring us to Chakicocha (3,400 m / 11,000 ft). This will be our coldest night on the trail, at around +3 degrees C in December and -4 C in June. Tea time and Buffet Dinner.
Maximum Altitude:4,200 m /
13,776 ft
Minimum Altitude:3,000
m/9,840 ft
Distance Travelled:10 Km
approx.
Approximate Walking
Time:5-6 hours / Ascent up: 900 m
Sat. May 12 CHAKICOCHA- AOBAMBA VALLEY- PHUYUPATAMARKA-
INTIPATA- WIÑAYWAYNA (CAMPING).
At sunrise, you will catch
sight of Sayacmarca back along the trail, perched on the side of one of the
many mountains that surround our campsite. Today’s hike is exceptionally
beautiful because we will pass the ruins of Phuyupatamarca, Winaywayna and
Intipata, and enjoy dramatic vistas of the Aobamba Valley. This stretch of the
trail is of well-kept paved stone, still in great condition after many
centuries. Your lungs will appreciate the fact that today’s hike is much more
down than up, and significantly shorter than yesterday’s.
In getting to Phuyupatamarca (the Town of the Clouds), we will pass through the first of two short, natural tunnels in the mountains. After visiting this site, we will descend about 2,000 stone steps to Winaywayna. If you have not had any knee problems up to this point, you may after this descent. If you have had prior knee injuries, we recommend the use of trekking poles, and perhaps an extra porter, to relieve some of the stress on your joints.
Around mid-day, we will arrive at the site of Winaywayna, which we will explore before completing a short additional hike to our camp site for the night (2,700 m / 8,856 ft). After lunch, we will visit the adjacent site of Intipata with its dramatic terrances.
A number of creature comforts will be available at this camp site. There is a bar and a small gift shop, and best of all, hot showers for a small fee. There will also be many more trekkers gathering here, ready for the final hike into Machu Picchu tomorrow. We therefore recommend taking extra care of your personal belongings here. Keep an eye on your daypacks and don’t leave anything outside your tent at night. Tea time and Buffet Dinner.
In getting to Phuyupatamarca (the Town of the Clouds), we will pass through the first of two short, natural tunnels in the mountains. After visiting this site, we will descend about 2,000 stone steps to Winaywayna. If you have not had any knee problems up to this point, you may after this descent. If you have had prior knee injuries, we recommend the use of trekking poles, and perhaps an extra porter, to relieve some of the stress on your joints.
Around mid-day, we will arrive at the site of Winaywayna, which we will explore before completing a short additional hike to our camp site for the night (2,700 m / 8,856 ft). After lunch, we will visit the adjacent site of Intipata with its dramatic terrances.
A number of creature comforts will be available at this camp site. There is a bar and a small gift shop, and best of all, hot showers for a small fee. There will also be many more trekkers gathering here, ready for the final hike into Machu Picchu tomorrow. We therefore recommend taking extra care of your personal belongings here. Keep an eye on your daypacks and don’t leave anything outside your tent at night. Tea time and Buffet Dinner.
Maximum Altitude:3,750 m /
12,300 ft
Minimum Altitude:2,700 m /
8,856 ft
Distance Travelled:10 Km
approx.
Approximate Walking
Time:5-6 hours / Descent : 700 m
Sun May 13 WIÑAYWAYNA- INTUPINKU- SUN´S GATE-
MACHUPICCHU- AGUAS CALIENTES (HOSTEL).
We will get up very early -
around 4:00 am - to get to Inti Punku (the Sun Gate), overlooking Machu Picchu
for the first rays of the sunrise. This will be a hike of 1-2 hours, with
significant upward stretches in the last half. You will be hiking in darkness,
so a headlamp is strongly recommended.
From Inti Punku, a final easy 40-minute hike will bring us to the entrance to Machu Picchu itself. The trail ends at a series of terraces, which present classic views of the overall city. We will continue on to explore the site, with explanations provided by the trek guide(s). The formal tour will end in the late morning, after which there will be a couple of hours for more exploring on your own, or to just collapse under a tree in the central plaza area.
In the early afternoon, lunch will be provided at “Los Viajeros” hostel down in the town of Aguas Calientes and this is the accomodation for people doing this tour unless full and then similar accomdation is provided nearby. Machupicchu is officially open from 06:00 am to 17:30 pm
You may like to soak in the hotsprings in the afternoon before dinner provided in Viajeros in the evening.
From Inti Punku, a final easy 40-minute hike will bring us to the entrance to Machu Picchu itself. The trail ends at a series of terraces, which present classic views of the overall city. We will continue on to explore the site, with explanations provided by the trek guide(s). The formal tour will end in the late morning, after which there will be a couple of hours for more exploring on your own, or to just collapse under a tree in the central plaza area.
In the early afternoon, lunch will be provided at “Los Viajeros” hostel down in the town of Aguas Calientes and this is the accomodation for people doing this tour unless full and then similar accomdation is provided nearby. Machupicchu is officially open from 06:00 am to 17:30 pm
You may like to soak in the hotsprings in the afternoon before dinner provided in Viajeros in the evening.
Maximum Altitude:2,700 m /
8,856 ft
Minimum Altitude:2,400 m /
7,872 ft (Machupicchu)
Distance Travelled:8 Km
approx plus exploration of Machu Picchu
Approximate Walking Time:6-7
hours / Descent : 300 m
Mon May 14 AGUAS CALIENTES- OLLANTAYTAMBO
After Breakfast you are
assisted to board the train that departs Aguas Calientes at 08.53 am and
arrives at Ollantaytambo at 10.30 am. The tour ends at Ollantaytambo. We will
stay here for two days in this charming town. Check into Hostel Casa de Wow. Hopefully
do laundry! Explore the Sacred Valley and more ruins.
Tues May 15 More Exploration of the sacred valley
& markets of the area. Hope to add
to blog and catch up.
Wed. May 16 Catch train or bus to Cusco, back to
Dream Hostel in Cusco.
Thurs. May 17 Take
shuttle to airport. 7:10 am fly to Lima flight # LAN 2014. Arrive 8:35 am.
Board #1630 10:35 am flight to Guayaquil.
Hostel
– Casa De Romero
Fri. May 18 Board
XL 1551 for flight to Baltra Island arrive 11:50
Baltra Airport to hotel on Santa Cruz Island (approx. 1 hour) *Bus over Baltra Island, Ferry boat ride over channel, and bus or
taxi over Santa Cruz Island to Puerto Ayora.
*Visit the twin
craters of Los Gemelos. See giant Galapagos tortoises roaming in nature. Cross
through ancient underground lava tunnels
Learn about and
see our reforestation and coffee project.
(boat leaves 8:00 AM - returns late afternoon)
Easy to Moderate – even terrain, snorkeling optional
30-45 ft. boat
- maximum capacity 16-20 passengers
*Transfer by taxi or bus to Baltra Island
about 1 hour
*Boat transfer
to Seymour Island (approx. 30-60 min.)
*Tour the
island to see blue-footed booby and frigate bird colonies, as well as the
unique flora and fauna, and topography of the island.
*Lunch included.
Explore an isolated beach called Bachas. Snorkel from the beach and visit a
flamingo lagoon. Return to Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz
Sunday, May 20
Easy – light walking, even
terrain
(approx. 2.5 hours)
*Learn about and see the
native and endemic flora and fauna of the area. Visit the Interpretation Center.
Visit tortoise corrals with tortoises ranging from juveniles to adults. Visit
land iguana corrals. Visit a little beach with a view of the port and Santa Fe
Island
Easy to Moderate – even terrain
2.5 kilometer
walk/1.55 miles
(about 30
minutes walk to the first beach, 25 minutes more to the bay)
*Walk to the
beach through forests of cacti, palo santo and matasarno trees. Enjoy the long
white sand beach. Snorkel among sea turtles, white-tip sharks, rays, and a
variety of fish if the visibility permits. Bring $10 to rent a kayak and look
for marine life. Look for sea turtles fishing in the waves.
Walk a trail
through a marine iguana sanctuary and cactus forest .
Monday, May 21 Make sure to get cash for
Isabela no ATMs there.
(boat leaves 5:30 AM - returns late afternoon)
Moderate to Strenuous – wooden boardwalk with 300+ stairs to summit,
snorkeling optional
30-45 ft. boat
- maximum capacity 16-20 passengers
*Bus or taxi
transfer to Baltra Island about 1 hour
*Boat transfer
to Bartolome Island (approx. 2-3 hours). Visit Pinnacle Rock, an impressive
lava formation that towers high above the water. See our very small species of
Galapagos penguins resting on the rocks, swimming and fishing. Lunch included. Snorkeling
offer the possibility of close encounters with white tip sharks, friendly sea
lions, sea turtles and a variety of fish. Enjoy a beautiful pink and white sand
beach where sea turtles lay their eggs, generation after generation. Hike on a
well-developed trail with wooden boardwalks and (more than 300) stairs to the
summit. From the summit see Pinnacle Rock and the beach far below, and Santiago
Island in the distance
Tuesday, May 22
(boat leaves 2:00 PM)
*Transport to
Isabela Island on a narrow 30 ft. outboard motor boat (approx. 2-3 hours)
*Enjoy the
local experience being with up to 20 passengers on their way to Isabela. Poor
ventilation and choppy seas can cause nausea, make sure you bring sea sick
medication. Transportation to hotel. Time to relax on the beach
Wednesday, May 23
(8:00 AM - about 3pm)
Strenuous – hiking over uneven terrain
*transportation
to the highlands, three hour strenuous hike to the world's second largest
volcanic crater. On a clear day enjoy the view of the northern volcanoes of
Isabela and Isla Fernandina from Volcan Chico. Bring a snack to enjoy at the
top. Hike back down to the bus. Lunch included at Campo Duro.
Thursday, May 24
Free
Morning in Puerto Villamil
*walk or
taxi to snorkel in La Concha y Perla
Bay, rich with Galapagos marine life
*walk through the tiny town of Puerto Villamil
*rent bikes to explore the island on your own
*relax on the beautiful white sand beach
(3:00 PM depending on tide, may switch to morning – half day)
Easy to Moderate – even terrain, snorkeling
Small 15 - 20 ft. fishermen boats - maximum capacity varies
*look for the
small Galapagos penguins on the rocks or fishing
*snorkel in the
bay with sea lions, white-tip sharks, rays, sea turtles and reef fish
*take an easy
hike through lava formations that are other-worldly
*visit a marine
iguana colony and a sea lion colony near by
Friday, May 25
Free Day
*Los
Tuneles option (additional
cost, payable that day) - boat tour, trekking over lava arches and snorkeling
through the stunning tunnel formations
*La Concha y Perla Bay - walk or taxi to snorkel in a bay rich with Galapagos marine
life. Rent bikes to explore the island on your own, relax on the beautiful white sand
beach.
Saturday, May 26
(morning)
Transport to Baltra Airport by boat
(boat
leaves 6:00 AM)
*Transport
to Santa Cruz Island on a narrow 30 ft. outboard motor boat (approx. 2-3 hours)
*Enjoy
the local experience being with up to 20 passengers on their way to Santa Cruz
*Poor
ventilation and choppy seas can cause nausea, make sure you bring sea sick
medication
*Taxi or
bus from Puerto Ayora dock to Baltra Airport (approx 45 minutes)
Fly out of Baltra 11:15 flight LAN XL1550 to Quito
arrive 15:55
Hostel Community Hostel
Sun. May 27 Enjoy
Quito
Mon May 28 Fly
AeroGal 56 9:10 am to Coca arrive 9:45
Upon
your arrival at the airport in Coca you will be met by a bilingual guide who
will accompany you on your 3 ½ hour journey to the lodge (3 hours on a
motorized canoe downstream on the Río Napo, Ecuador's largest river, as well as
½ hour in dug-out canoes on the Challuayacu, the small stream leading to the
lodge). On the boat ride you will be served a light lunch and you will be given
information about the area. After a welcome drink and having settled in at the
lodge you will canoe the lagoon and take in the sunset before enjoying your
dinner. Camping in tents raised off ground set on platforms with pitched
thatched roofs.
Tues May
29 Sani lodge Jungle Exploration
After an early breakfast you will leave the lodge by canoe, catching the morning action on the lagoon before engaging in a rainforest hike learning about and seeing wildlife at its best while being accompanied by the roaring cries of the howler monkey. After lunch and a siesta break you will go to fish piranha (K says not me) and return to the lodge at sun set to look at the caimans in the water. Dinner will give you time to relax and reflect on the experienced.
After an early breakfast you will leave the lodge by canoe, catching the morning action on the lagoon before engaging in a rainforest hike learning about and seeing wildlife at its best while being accompanied by the roaring cries of the howler monkey. After lunch and a siesta break you will go to fish piranha (K says not me) and return to the lodge at sun set to look at the caimans in the water. Dinner will give you time to relax and reflect on the experienced.
Wed. May 30
Sani lodge Jungle Exploration
The canoe ride to the beginning of the Coto Trail will give you time to gather your strength for the upcoming hike. After an easy 2 hour walk through the forest you will be picked up by canoe on the other end of the trail and begin the return to the hotel on hoatzin alley, a little side stream of the lagoon, looking at the abundance of birds and checking out the marching wasps. During the afternoon you will ascend the 30 m tree tower (only 20 minutes from the lodge) and look at toucans, macaws, parrots and maybe even a group of monkeys before hiking back to the lodge at night to look at spiders, night monkeys, frogs and other nocturnal animals. Dinner at the lodge.
The canoe ride to the beginning of the Coto Trail will give you time to gather your strength for the upcoming hike. After an easy 2 hour walk through the forest you will be picked up by canoe on the other end of the trail and begin the return to the hotel on hoatzin alley, a little side stream of the lagoon, looking at the abundance of birds and checking out the marching wasps. During the afternoon you will ascend the 30 m tree tower (only 20 minutes from the lodge) and look at toucans, macaws, parrots and maybe even a group of monkeys before hiking back to the lodge at night to look at spiders, night monkeys, frogs and other nocturnal animals. Dinner at the lodge.
Thurs. May 31
Sani lodge Jungle Exploration
Early departure after breakfast to the Napo's south side. There you will visit two parrot mineral licks to see a huge flock of different parrots that are usually hard to see up close while they feed on the minerals. After a lunch break you will then start a 3 hours hike on that side of the Napo to look at the differences in flora and fauna. Return to Sani Lodge to relax a little before dinner.
Early departure after breakfast to the Napo's south side. There you will visit two parrot mineral licks to see a huge flock of different parrots that are usually hard to see up close while they feed on the minerals. After a lunch break you will then start a 3 hours hike on that side of the Napo to look at the differences in flora and fauna. Return to Sani Lodge to relax a little before dinner.
Fri. June 1
Sani lodge - Napo river - Coca - Quito
Departure from Sani Lodge watching dawn on the Napo and catching the last glimpses of wildlife. Breakfast on the 3 ½ boat ride back to Coca where, upon arrival, your guide will take you to the airport. Flight back to Quito.
Departure from Sani Lodge watching dawn on the Napo and catching the last glimpses of wildlife. Breakfast on the 3 ½ boat ride back to Coca where, upon arrival, your guide will take you to the airport. Flight back to Quito.
11:15 fly out of Coca AeroGal 57 arrive Quito 11:50
Hostel in Quito - Community
Hostel
Sat. June 2 Quito
Sun June 3 9:45 am flight American 966 to
Miami arrive 2:55 pm
Depart 5:05 pm flight American 501 to Denver Arrive
Denver 7:25 pm
Getting Ready - pt. 2
Almost all logistics are completed, we've done trial packing to make sure we can fit everything into the bags, have airport shuttles arranged at all of our destinations, hostels booked, shots taken . . . . double-checking packing lists and getting back-up copies of important documents. Wish I could fit my little niece Remi into the suitcase to help with the translations. Rogene has a translator app for her phone but is not sure how to use it. Speaking of phones, it is much cheaper to text than call, so we may try that --- and perhaps post to FB or send emails. That's it for now.
Saturday, April 14, 2012
Getting ready - part I
Just trying to figure out this blog -- it's April 14th and we are trying to get our packing lists in order, "ToDo" lists completed and itinerary finalized. In just 3 very short weeks we will be heading off on our SA adventure: Machu Pichu, Galapagos Islands, and Amazon basin. We fly out of Denver on May 6th and return to Denver on June 3rd. In between is sure to be interesting, challenging, with hopefully a little fun thrown in.
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